The Devil's Staircase, or Yakaage Padipela, is one of those dream routes that lives in the hearts of many travellers. It is among the most beautiful, challenging, and high-altitude roads in Sri Lanka, leading all the way towards Horton Plains. For many adventure lovers, travelling along this road at least once in their lifetime is a special dream.
This scenic route stretches from Kalupahana, passing through Udaveriya Estate, and continues towards Horton Plains. The total distance is about 26 kilometres. Today, we are ready to begin our journey along this unforgettable trail.
We started our journey from the Kalupahana side, although travellers can also begin from the Ohiya side. If you are coming from the Balangoda direction, Kalupahana Junction is located before Haldummulla. After turning from Kalupahana and driving about one kilometre inward, we came across the first sharp S-bend of the journey.
One special feature of this road is the number of tight hairpin bends along the way. The first two bends were so narrow that we had to reverse the vehicle carefully to move forward. This gives a clear idea of how challenging the road can be, especially for those travelling by vehicle.
As we descended beyond the bends, a beautiful stream and a stretch of terraced paddy fields came into view. This area is known as Weerakongama. After passing Weerakongama and travelling about four more kilometres, there are no more Sinhala villages along the route. Beyond that point lies the Udaveriya Estate, where the estate community is mainly Tamil.
Soon, we came across another set of four sharp hairpin bends located close together. We first tried to take the bend directly and climb upwards, but the narrow road did not provide enough space to turn the vehicle properly. Once again, we had to reverse carefully and climb bend by bend.
As we continued upwards, a magnificent sight suddenly appeared before our eyes: Bambarakanda Falls, the highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. This is the first point along the road where Bambarakanda becomes visible. A little further ahead, we reached the turn-off to visit the waterfall. However, instead of stopping there immediately, we continued to have our breakfast first.
We had breakfast at Bambarakanda Holiday Resort. While we were there, we spoke with Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa, who runs the place, and asked her about other places to visit in the area. When travelling in an unfamiliar region, it is always useful to speak with someone who knows the area well. Such guidance can make a journey more meaningful and successful.
Mrs. Sera kindly shared her local knowledge with us. She explained that visitors to this area can see Bambarakanda Falls, Lanka Ella, and Yalathenna Ella. She also mentioned that those who enjoy hiking can climb Wangedigala. After speaking with her, we decided that we should visit both Bambarakanda Falls and Lanka Ella before continuing along the Devil's Staircase.
After breakfast, we looked directly towards Bambarakanda Falls from the hotel. Although it was January, just after the monsoon rains, there was not a large flow of water in the waterfall. While observing the falls, I noticed a very unusual and beautiful natural formation. On the left side of the rock face where the waterfall drops, there was a giant rock shape that looked like a young couple embracing each other.
Over many years, sunlight, rain, wind, and lightning have shaped the rock into this remarkable natural creation. If you ever visit Bambarakanda Falls, look carefully and you may also be able to see this beautiful formation. However, to see it clearly, you need to be in the area near the hotel; it is not visible from below.
Soon, we reached the entrance to the waterfall. Visitors need to purchase a ticket before entering. The entrance area itself is attractive and well maintained. Compared with many other waterfalls in Sri Lanka, it is clear that the local council has made a good effort to protect and beautify this place. Because of that, every visitor also has a responsibility to help preserve the environment.
We walked along a concrete stepped path and crossed the stream flowing from Bambarakanda using a small iron bridge. After crossing the bridge, we entered a pine forest. This is a forest plantation managed by the Forest Conservation Department. After climbing another 300 to 400 metres through the pine trees, we finally reached the base of Bambarakanda Falls.
Standing at the foot of Sri Lanka's highest waterfall was a wonderful experience. Bambarakanda Falls is 241 metres high. Although the water falls from such a great height, the pool at the bottom is not very deep. Therefore, it is generally a safer place for visitors to bathe, provided they act carefully and responsibly.
A concrete viewing platform has also been built near the base of the waterfall, making it easier for tourists to enjoy the beauty of the falls. From there, the full height and charm of Bambarakanda can be experienced clearly.
In the past, this waterfall was known by several names, including Bambaragala Ella, Bambarakale Ella, and Bambara Ella. It is believed that the name later became Bambarakanda because of the presence of bees in the surrounding area. Bambarakanda is also the highest waterfall connected with the Walawe River system. It is formed by Weli Oya, a tributary that feeds the Walawe River.
Although Bambarakanda is the highest waterfall in Sri Lanka, it is ranked around 48th in the world by height. Set within an evergreen forest, this waterfall adds a unique and unforgettable beauty to the entire region.
After spending time at Bambarakanda Falls, we prepared to continue our journey to Lanka Ella, another waterfall formed by a branch stream of Weli Oya. We will meet again next week from Lanka Ella.
This journey was made easier with the kind support of Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa of Bambarakanda Holiday Resort. Travellers who wish to explore this area may contact her for guidance. Her telephone number is 071 170 7692.